Adjustable skirt-pattern.



No. 824,734. Y Y* Y MTENTED JULY s; me. v. Hi @955i Y ADJUSTAB'LE'SERT FATTBRN.

APPLIUATXYON ILBD IEEE 15, 1905.

Y 2 emga-SEEE? i.

nu' :mins s; -rsss sav, was sunmroN. aA c PATENTED JULY 3, 1906.

Efo. 324,784.

' Aitbmeya UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

VINA HILDEBRAND GOFF, OF lOLA, KANSAS. ASSGNOR TO GOFF DESIGNER COMPANY, OF IOLA, KANSAS.

ADJUSTABLE smeT-PATTERN.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 3, 1906.

pplicaticn filed lune l5, 1905. Serial No. 265,393.

To @ZZ whom, t rudy concern:

Be it known that l, VINA HILDEBRAND GorF, a citizen of the United States, residing at lola, in the county of Allen and State of Kansas, have invented a neuT and useful Ad- `instable Skirt-Pattern, of which the followin is a specification.

his invention relates to adjustable skirtpatterns.

The object of the invention is to provide 'a' novel form of pattern that will not only obviate the necessity of taking measurements and of making a draft therefrom but that mayr be used as a designer and locater of seam positions and will in use accurately del note and conform to the curves of the bodjyy as far as necessary and that will denote and accnratel)T conform to elevations and deressions of the waist-line, according'as the orrn or style of the time mayY require.

W'ith the above and other objects-'in rieti', as Will appear as the nature of the invention is better understood, the saine consists in the novel construction and combination of arts of an adjustable skirt-pattern, as will be ereinafter fully described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, and in which like characters of reference indicate corresponding parts, Figure 1 is a diagrammatic view of the gore plates or patterns used in draftin a sevenore skirt. Fig. 2 is a perspective view o the pattern applied to the representation ci a human form. Fig. 3 isadetail view, partly in sectionI of one of the belt-clamps7 showing it attached to one ofthe templets of a gore-pattern. Fi 4 is a collective detail view' in elevation o a hook and eye used in connection with the device. Fi 5 is a detail View of the pattern meinberor drafting curves at the side edges of the skirt-gores. Fig. 6 is a similar view of a pattern member for drafting curves at the bottom ofthe skirtgores. Fig. 7 is a view in elevation of one of a set of similar bars on which are printed scales of graduated measures for determining the widths of skirtores at places correspond-Y ing with the belt', on the gore-plates.

gitudinal section, taken on the line 8 8, llig'jl,V and looking in the direction of the errori?? thereon.

and bottom positions tig. s is a View in isn--YV 'As each gore-plate is an exact counterpart of the others, except in the matter of length of the distending bars of the Jfront-gore plate and in the manner of connecting the outer gores to each other at the hips, but one of the gore-plates will be speciiically described, correspondin parts being indicated on the other plates y like characters of reference. Referring to the drawings and to Fig. 1 thereof, 1 designates, generell r, a patternplate for drafting one-half of t e iront gore of aY skirt; 2 generally, a pattern-plate for drafting the hrst side gore of a skirt; 3, genorallyJ a pattern-plate for drafting the second side or side back ore of a skirt; and 4, generally, a pattern-lodato for drafting the ack'gore of a skirt. In describin the specific construction of the plate that esignated 2 has been selected.

The structure embodies in part a narrow belt 5, of leather, tape, or an5T other suitable Y material, which passes through clamps 6 and 7, that may be made ci env suitable material or shape and the detailed descri tion of which will a pear farther on. votall5T connected wit the clamps by eyelets or rivets 8, Fig. 3, are templets 9 and 10, connecting with the lower ends of which by binding screws or posts are tern lets 12 and 13. In a similar manner pairs o templets 14 and 15, 16 and 17 are'pivotally connected by binding-screws 18, 1Qg 20 and 21 thelovrer Yends of the tem lets 16 and 17 being pivotally connected by binding-screws 22 and 23 to the upper ends of a pair of relatively short bars 24 and 25;, the said bars being slidabl; connected with the lon side bars 26 and 27 by Vprovidin both Wit slots 28, bindingscrews 2Q an 35 serving to hold the two sets of bars assembled.

Curved distending-bars 30 and 31 are pivotall connected at their lower ends by a binding-screw 32, the up er end of the bars being similarly connecte with the tem lets 12 and 13 by the binding-screws 18 an 19. A second pair of longer straight distendingbars 33 are pivotally connected at their lower ends by binding-screws 34, the upper ends of theiiars being pivotally connected With the bars'e' 'and 25 by binding-screws 35, that Work in the slots 2S. A third air of strai ht distending-bars 36 are pivotal y connecte at the lower ends of the bars 26 and 2? by bindi 'ing-screws 37 the ends of the bars 36 being pivotally connected by a binding-screw 38, the

ars 36 being longer than the bars 33. On

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the right-hand side of the slots28 are measuring-scales 39 of actual inches, the purpose of Which will hereinafter appear.

Located at the points where the distendingbars are attached to the sides of the goreplates are metal hooks 40, 41, and 42, and located at the same relative positions on. the opposite side of the gore-plate are eyes 43, 44, and 45, the function of which Will hereinafter appear.

The tem )lets 9 and 10 should be made of sheet metal, and the remaining templets and bars may be made of metal, rees-board, or any other tough light materia suited for the purpose, and the terminals of all the templets and bars should be cut on a semicircle in order to obviate the presentation of sharp corners.

ln the gore-plate 1 the distending-bars 30, 31, 33, and 36 maybe made of the same length as the corresponding pairs in the other goreplates or they maybe made relativelyT shorter, as shown in Fig. 1.

The belt 5 is fastened with a buckle 46 or any other suitable fastening device. Connected with the gore-plate 4 by a bindingscrew 47 is a tape 48, which may be graduated and connects with the gore-plate 1 by a snap-hook 49, held combined with the goreplate by a binding-screw 50.

In the plate shown in Fig. 5, 51 and 52 designate long curved templets or bars which are connected by four shorter templets 53, 54, 55, and 56, the connection being secured by means of binding-screws 57 in the same manner as the other parts of the device. The plate shown in Fig. 6 consists of six curved templets 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, and 63, of which the templet 58 is the lon est, the series of templets being connected y binding-screws 64 to permit ready pivotal movement of the members relatively to each other.

While Fig. 1 shows only four gore-plates suitable for desi ning and drafting a skirt of seven gores or ess, as many more plates of like construction may be combined with the belt as the style of the skirt demands or the size of the form permits.

In Fig. 2 there is shown one method of setting the designer preparatory to its being secured as a pattern-plate for drafting. The device is suspended from the Waist of a person by means of the belt, and the different gore-plates are hooked together by means of the hooks 40 42 and eyes 43 45. The plates are then suitably adjusted both laterally and vertically to the form, accordin to the style of the skirt desired, and all o the binding-posts and belt-clamps which initially are loosened are then tightened. The plates are then unhooked from each other, the belt and connecting-tape unfastened, and the device removed from the form. The' goreplates Will then be rigid individually and se arate from each other except at the be t,

65 When they may be used as pattern-plates for drafting the upper members of the gores of the skirt. The side edges of the lower part of the skirt are drafted by combining the plate shown in Fig. 5, set to the desired curve upon the line drawn at the outer side of any gore-plate and continuing this line along the edge of the side-drafting plate to a point indieating the desired width of the bottom of the gore.

By using the skirt-length measure three or more points in the bottom curve of any gore may be located, when the pattern plate shown in. Fig. 6 may be set to this curve and the bottom edge of the gore smoothly drawn. In case of theabsence of an individual to be fitted the several gore-plates maybe adjusted vertically by means of a scale of inches on the side of the bars 24 and 25 in accordance with variations in skirt-length measures taken at seam positions, and the lateral dimensions of the plates may be ascertained by means of a series of bars containing sets of graduated. scales of measures printed thereon suitable to adjusting the plates at the belt, hip, and bottom. positions. These bars are identical in size and alike in plan and general arrangement, and for this reason but one is shown in Fig. 7, this being the one used in adjusting the widths of the front-gore plate for a sevengored skirt. ln the plate shown in this figure, 65 designates the upper edge of the bar along which is placed a graduated scale of measures 66 for adjusting the width of the top of the gore-plate. Along the line 67 is placed a graduated scale 68 of measures for adjusting the Width of the same plate at the hip-line or at the top of the long side bars. On the lower edge 69 of the plate is a graduated scale of measures 70 for adjusting the Width of the same at the bottom of the long side bars. The graduated-scale measure 66 is based proportionately upon the Whole belt measures. The scale 68 is based proportionately on Whole hip measures, and the scale 70 is an arbitrary scale assumed to give good scale form when used with hip measures corresponding toits numerical divisions. To illustrate the use of the bar 71, the following example is given: If a person to be fitted measures twenty-five inches at the Waist and forty inches at the hips, the top of the frontgore plate is set at 25 on scale 66, measuring from the left end of the bar, the Width of the gore-plate at the top of the side bars is set at 40 on the scale 68, and the Width of the gore-plate at the lower end of the side bars is set at 40 on the scale 70. It is obvious that three scales similarly constructed must be used for each gore-plate adjusted, although the scales for two ores may be printed on the opposite sides of the same bar, and the scales for a fiveore skirt will necessarily be different from sca es for a seven-gore skirt. The blank spaces on each bar are utilized for printing necessary instructions .and explana- TOO tions, especially to designate for what part of the gore each scale is intended, to what kind oi a skirt the scales belong, and for which particular gore they are designed. When the several gore-plates oi the designer are properly adjusted vertically and laterally, as described, and the small tem lets are set in proper curves between the hip and belt positions, a good iit will be secured by using the gore-plates as patterns, even when the device cannot be applied to the form of the individual to be fitted.

The foregoing description applies to the invention as it is generally preferred to manufacture it for ordinary purposes and for usage; but it will be obvious, first, that ii it should be desired that all the tempiets and bars composing the several gore-plates be made oi metal each may be made oi' narrow dimensions, retaining the same length as those in the lates described; second, for children a sina l device mav be made having all its part-s of the same relative proportions as the one described,and, third, that for extremely large forms With heavy hip curves or for persons unusually tall one or more templets similar to the small pivotally-attached templets corresponding to i2 and 13 in the gore-plate 2 may be added to each set of tcmplets to give the re uired length to the hip portions of the severa gore-plates.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is 1. An adjustable skirt-pattern comprising a belt and a plurality of gore-deiining plates, each plate embodying a pair of relatively long side bars, a pair of relatively short bars slidably combined therewith, a pluralit of articulated templets connecting the astnamed bars with the belt, and a plurality of connected distending-bars having their terminals assembled respectively with the long side bars and with two ofthe templets.

2. An adjustable shirt-pattern comprising a belt and a plurality of gore-dening plates, each plate embodying a pair of relativelyT long side bars, a pair of relatively short bars slidably combined therewith, a plnraiitv of articulated templets connected with the lastnarned bars, clamping elements carried by the outer templets and engaging the belt, and a plurality of connected distending-bars having their terminals assembled respectively with the long` side bars and to two of the teinplots.

3. An adjustable skirt-pattern comprising a beit and a plurality of gore-doiining plates, each plate embodying a pair of relatively long side bars, a pair oi relatively short bars slidably combined therewith, a plurality of articulated templets connecting the lastname-d bar with the belt, curved distcndingbars connected with two of the templets adjacent to the belt, connected straight distendnig-bars combined with the side oars at their upper and lower terminals, and means for adjnstably assembling the template, side bars and distending-bars.

4. An adjustable skirt-pattern comprising a belt and, a plurality ci ore-deiining plates, each embodying a pair o relatively long side bars, a pair of relatively short bars slidably combined therewith, a plurality of articulated templets connecting the last-named bars with the belt, a plurality of connected distending-bars having their terminals assembled respectively with the long side bars and with two of the teni lets, hooks and eyes carried by the distending-bars at their point of juncture with the plate, and a measuringband having one terminal secured to one of the plates, and its other terminal adapted to engage a clamping device carried by an adj acent plate.

5. An adjustable skirt-pattern comprising a belt and a plurality of gore-defining plates, each late embodying a pair of relatively long side bars, a pair of relatively short bars provided with longitudinal graduated slots, means for slidably connecting the firstnamed bars with the latter bars, a lurality of articulated templets connecting t ie short bars with the belt, a plurality of connected distending-bars having their terminals assembled respectively with the long side bars and with two oi the templets, means for connecting the series of plates, and means for adnstably assembling the side bars, distendinU-bars and tern lets.

in testimony t at I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto affixed my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

VINA HILBEBRAND GOFF. Witnesses:

J. H. HENDERSON, B. D. PoNsLnn.

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